Jaipur Literature Festival

Last week we celebrated in Jaipuir a Literature Festival. Event was great, hosted in Diggi Palace. Oxford and Penguin publishers had various book stalls, but certainly the best part of the festival were the interviews with various writers (ie. William Darlymple, who writes extensivelly about India), film producers and so on. Every evening was crowned by a live music performance. But, for me, the biggest highlight was Aamir Khan and Anoushka Shankar! I am crazy about Aamir, thus together with my friends we made sure we came to his talk. Here we are all excited: Beck, Emily, Zain, Jinet and his wife Melissa.

And here are some pictures of Aamir that I took myself (I posed to be a member of the press and was happily clicking away 1 meter from Aamir!).

Anoushka gave a great performance at the Central Park! Fest for the ears!

Winter Holidays part 2 - Kalka-Shimla Train

The highlight of travelling from Chandigarh to Shimla was a ride on a Toy Train that takes 6 hours to reach Shimla. This railway was built by the British in 1903 who needed a smart and reliable transport to get to their holiday destination and summer oasis without the heat. Shimla became the summer capital of the British Raj for many years. Obviously the Brits thought that they will be staying around in India for a while - they made a great effort to built the railway, which goes through 102 tunels, 889 bridges, 919 curves and moves through beautiful hillsides. Nowadays, happy indian honey-moon goers (usually from South India) and videshis like myself, enjoy the memories of the great British past.

Kalka train today and in 1903.

Winter Holidays - Chandigarh

Here is a glimpse of what I have been up to during my travels in December! I have travelled with Michael - friend from Chicago and 2 Londoners - Sarah and Louise. Michael and Louise study with me in Jaipur, Sarah is a good friend from Vrindavan.
First of all we went to Chandigarh. It is the present capital city of the States of both Punjab and Haryana is the first planned city of India. However, it does not belong to either of the States. It is a Union Territory, administered by the Government of India. The city is very modern and has derived its name from a temple on the slope of the Sivalik hill, Chandi Mandir (deity Chandi, goddess of power), and a fort or "garh" beyond the temple, called Chandigarh.

Michael 'borrows' a local rikshaw!

Chandigarh is a modern city - shopping in Levi's, Benetton is a daily routine for all the rich people who live there (and all people who live there are rich!). Perhaps this is the reason why noone wears indian type clothing in that city! Other amazing things - pavements and rubbish bins that people actually use! Overall, Chandigarh feels like an english town build in the 70-ties, such as Basildon, Crawley, Romford etc. If you have been to any of them, you know what I mean!

Makar Sankranti

Last week we celebrated in Jaipur Makar Sankranti festival. This day (Januray 14) marks the day of transition of the Sun from Sagittarius to Capricorn during the winter solstice in the northern hemisphere. On that day people take religious baths, go to the temples and give in charity. Here in Jaipur it is also known as the Kite Festival! Everyone flies kites and it is taken up with great seriousness!

Here I am having a go! My landlords took a great pleasure in teaching me the art of kite flying.
Zainji is happy!

And even the presiding Deities of Jaipur had fun flying kites too! Here is Lord Damodar's special darsan.

And Govindadev was enjoying flying kites with Radha, Lalita and Visakha also!

Jaipur Stroll

I love to walk around the Purana Seher (Old City) of Jaipur. There is nothing better than an aimless walk through the crowdy streets and gallies of the Pink City. Especially after studying Hindi at samsthan (institute) for 8 hours a day, when the brain starts having a consistency of a milkshake...

Well, the scenario is usual. You walk - they call you. Who? The shopkeepers. After all, I am the potential paisewali. I am white, so I must be rich. I am white, so I must be a tourist. But sorry guys, as much as I would like to please you, I don't need postcards, silver jelewry, fake gems, puppets, bangles and so on. I live here. Maybe if you have drain unplugging device, a cocroach spray or a toilet cleaning bleach - I may be interested. Otherwise, so sorry...

Two days ago, while on my walk I have passed a few shops where the dukhandars tried all what possible to stop me. I didn't, I carried on. But hey, finally I came accross a line of shops where no one was bothered with me. No one called. No one jumped out of the shop to stop me. What's going on? I have lost my celebrity status.

Perplexed I walked in to one shop to see why I was such an unimportant customer. After all, shop looked attractive and colorful. Well, soon enough I found out why I wasn't any good to contribute to a daily earning of the shopkeeper. All shops that I got ingnored by were selling all what's necessary for the anyesthi samskara - funeral and cremation. Well, I guess, once upon a time I will be a customer in such a shop, but at that time, probably it will be someone else buying gear there on my behalf...

Angrez!

Ever had a personality split or were confused about where you are from? Here in India I am constantly reminded of what I am: "Angrez!". This is what the crowd calls me. Put it simply, I am white, so I am Angrez. Angrez means English. Now, here is where my confusion comes: yes, I am white. But I am Polish. And I hold British Citizenship. And have an Indian Registration Certificate. So who am I?

When I am in Poland, people say that I have become English (whatever that may mean... no, I don't eat fish and chips!). When I am in England people say I am Polish. Or, the latest from the UK scene is - I am so indianized that I am Indian. And in India, I am Angrez.

Well, I guess after the British had to pack up and leave India in 1947, someone has to make up for their presence here. Thus, whether you like it or not, you are Angrez!