My First Day at School

Recently a friend of mine has sent me this picture. I completely forgot about the existence of this, as due course of my life I moved houses, cities, countries and continents. But here you go folks - this is a photo taken in Poland, on my first day at primary school - a looooooong time ago: 1st of September, 1982. Considering the fact that I am still loitering around at the university, that makes it sound totally prehistoric.

Well, any guesses where I am on this photo? To tell you the truth - it took me a while to figure it out! Huh, maybe it is some proof that I grew up after all?

Journalism in the Age of Quarrel

As we all hear the latest about Mumbai terrorist attacks, I ponder about the job of those who report the news to us. Here is a picture of Mumbai journalists giving their live reports while lying down in order to avoid being shot by stray bullets. Training to be a journalist myself, I realise how different it is from writing about gossip and celebrities!

http://www.time.com/time/today-in-pictures/0,31511,1862761,00.html

Braj Rāslīlā Dramas

Since it is the end of the Kartik month and the Maha Ras is going to take place, I thought I would share with you essay which I have just written for my course entitled "Literature in the 19th century colonial India".

Braj rāslīlā performances – their literary, educational and cultural impact on British and “Hindoos” of 19th century colonial India

Colonial India of 19th century saw a great development in it’s theatrical state of arts. Intellectual circles and common folk were able to see performances played by various types of theatres. This variety consisted of devotional ramlīlās and rāslīlās set up in the open air or within a temple environment, a more sophisticated parsi theatre displaying historical, social and mythological genres or a mixture of both styles – the famous nautankī. Study of theatre popular at particular era allows one to venture into many areas of interest and it gives one access to understanding the history of language, literature, religion and culture of a particular region. British who were present in India at that time were naturally exposed to rich cultural heritage of that continent. Holding administrative duties within the country involved the necessity of knowledge of it’s customs, language, religion and art. Whether appreciating it or not, British immersed in the environment around them, found themselves exposed to India’s theatrical heritage as well. In this way, Indian theatre played to two audiences – “Hindoos” and British. Cultural, linguistic and religious aspect of the Braj rāslīlā performances and it’s perception by British and Indian people, portrays the position of Hindi literature of that time, which was active via the medium of this devotional drama.

Braj rāslīlā has to be understood within it’s regional and religious setting. Rāslīlā originated from the region of two cities of north India - Vrindāvan and Mathurā. Up to the present day, the language medium there is a local dialect of Hindi - Braj. Mathurā, the birthplace of Kṛṣṇa and Vrindāvan, the area where Kṛṣṇa spent his youth, both create a setting for the theological and cultural basis of the rāslīlās. These two cities are famous for being the cultural and linguistic hub of the Kṛṣṇa worship and the Braj language.
Līlās are Kṛṣṇa’s actions which he played as child or lover of the gopīs. According to “Viṣṇu Purāṇa”, rās refers in particular to Kṛṣṇa’s circle dance performed together with the gopīs on a full moon autumn night. “Bhāgavata Purāṇa” (3.2.14) brings the two terms together, calling the original romantic event the rāslīlā.[1] It is therefore that the devotional drama – Braj rāslīlā, consists of 2 parts: rās (dancing) and līlā (singing and dialogue). Kṛṣṇa’s original dance and other stories from his life are re-enacted. The followers of Kṛṣṇa tradition see such performances as representation of most important parts of Vaiṣṇava theological thought.
The rāslīlās are performed exquisitely in the Braj language because it is a speciality of the residents of that region. Living in the land of Kṛṣṇa, understanding the theological intricacies of Kṛṣṇa culture and being able to speaking the regional language, all became the essential requirements of the performance. In this way, Braj rāslīlās gained very strong linguistic and regional character. Apart from being the language of stage performance, Brajbhāshā became the language of religious books, songs and temple stories. In fact, through spreading the popularity of rāslīlās, Brajbhāshā culture gained almost a national appeal.[2]
The theology of religious traditions active in Braj area gives a prime importance to understanding, and in fact celebrating, the union of Rādhā and Kṛṣṇa.[3] According to theological schools of Vrindāvan, it is the devotee’s highest duty and pleasure to contemplate the dalliance and union of these two divine lovers while thinking himself as an attendant who facilitates their meetings and renders the adoring service.[4] Rāslīlās thus resemble and portray the fundamental attitudes of India’s bhakti tradition.

Braj rāslīlās provided spiritual and educational value to it’s spectators. The commencement of the rāslīlā performances took place along with re-establishment of the cultural and religious importance of Vrindāvan in 16th century, by Rupa and Sanatan Goswamis. Federic Salomon Growse, the British administrator of Mathurā in 19th century, maintains that rāslīlās started along with initiating the banjātrā – a pilgrimage through all places in Braj in which Kṛṣṇa’s pastimes occurred.[5] Nārāyaṇ Bhatt, a disciple of Rupa, who started the banjātrā, identified these places and erected special platforms (maṇḍalīs) where the actual rās dance took place. The round maṇḍalīs built with the throne for Rādhā and Kṛṣṇa, apart from marking the sacred spot, became the first stage arrangements where līlās were performed. By being acted in the actual divine-geographical spots, the rāslīlās became a form of religious ritual. Through seeing līlās in the sacred places of Braj, the spectator could experience spiritual transformation and learn about the theology and history of the area. Nārāyaṇ Bhatt made līlās more accessible to general populace and played crucial role in improving it’s performance and musical aspect. Encouraging staging rāslīlās enabled him to illuminate reality by evoking the vision of the deity. In this way, rāslīlās can be understood as continuity of tradition – just as gopīs enacted the rāsa dance because they were missing Kṛṣṇa, in the same way those who played in līlā as Braj actors, and the spectators of the rāsa performance, could have a darsan of Kṛṣṇa. Līlās carried thus spiritual and educational value which was giving it’s impact via dramatic performance and Braj poetry which was part of it.
Educational value for the Indian viewers of the rāslīlās can be understood in a broader perspective. Due to strong devotional aspect of this theatrical form it is clear that it’s purpose wasn’t just a mere, plain entertainment. Līlās due to their sacredness were never played on the roadsides where līlā could be just stared at by passer-bys. Looking at rāslīlā meant entering into a sacred space – in a physical and metaphorical sense. Līlās thus usually were enacted within the temple compounds, pandals, or at houses of rich families (where devotees who wanted to see them were always encouraged to come in). Spectators had understanding that actors playing roles of Rādhā Kṛṣṇa, were in fact non-different from them and therefore needed to be shown utmost respect. A particular feature of the rāslīlā was that all roles were played by Brahmin boys, up to the age of 12-13.[6] Young age of the actors is explained as a way of keeping purity over people’s perception of Kṛṣṇa’s love affairs. The educative impetus of līlās can be thus looked within two contexts – it’s impact on actors and on the spectators.
Although the sacredness of the performance was strictly maintained and reinforced upon the viewers, līlās were open to all audience. The literacy level of the 19th century residents of Braj was extremely low. Majority of people gained their theological knowledge not by reading scriptures but by hearing the poetry of the medieval Braj poets which was used in rāslīlās and which was popularly sung at the local temples. The modified vernacular renderings of these great poets, which during the performance were further enriched by prose and pravacan, contributed to the education of the people of Braj.[7] On the contrast with illiteracy of the Braj folk, svamīs - the leaders of līlā groups, were highly skilled in usage of Hindi, Braj and Sanskrit. Brahmin boys who played in līlās had to become literate as well, in order to be able to learn their lines. Svamī on taking on someone’s son into the group was taking responsibility for providing the child necessary education.[8] Rāslīlās therefore had their importance far beyond recreation – they were complexly evolved, extensive in outreach, effective in communicating the religious experience and an important instrument in education.[9]

The literary contribution of the 19th century rāslīlās consists of writings of poets who drew their inspiration from the religious scriptures and literary heritage of earlier bhakti writers. Braj poetry was continually created in 16th, 17th, 18th and consequently in 19th century. 18th century especially is characterised by increased creativity of commentaries on previous vernacular languages. Writings of Vallabha’s eight poet disciples (the Ashtachap), the “Sūrsāgar” of Sūrdās, and the “Braj Vilasā” by Brajbāsī dās (written in 1743) all taking their source from Bhāgavata Purāṇa were all further expanded by rāsdhārīs of 19th century. Dhruvadās of 17th century was inspired to compose during nights at rāsmandal in Vrindāvan. Further contribution in 18th century is “Rās Chadma Vinod” of Cācā Vrindābandās. Starting from the 16th century, in every successive century, the poets of Braj have been thus setting forth new stories concerning Kṛṣṇa, often with the needs of the rāslīlā staging as their direct impetus. Nārāyaṇ Svamī, a 19th century poet clearly states in the introduction to his “Braj Vihār” that he was an enthusiastic follower of the rāsmaṇḍalīs and wrote especially for their use. Those who would adopt their works for the stage purpose have probably dwelt on poetry of previous writers since generations. What made the rāslīlā remarkable was the literary treasure on which it drew, the refinement of language and the feeling which it derives from generations of literate stage people, and of it’s power to attract and influence relatively sophisticated and cultured audiences.

There are a few accounts of British seeing a rāslīlā being performed. Thomas Duer Broughton in his “Letters written in a Mahratta Camp during the year 1809” gives a detailed description of such event. Broughton (1778-1835) was a British army officer with literary interest who went to India in 1795. Son of a clergyman in Bristol, educated in Eaton, eventually joined the Bengal Army. In 1802 he became the commander of the British Resident’s escort at the court of Daulat Rao Sindia, the leader of the strongest Maratha army. Broughton had a good knowledge of Urdu and was well acquainted with the Persian literature. During his stay in India he developed also a great interest in the Braj poetry.[10] In his letters he recalls watching a rāslīlā performance on the occasion of Janmāsṭami celebrations.[11] Broughton seems to be impressed by the performance and the appearance of the Brahmin-boys actors of whom he says: “they are all eminently handsome”.[12] His writing reflect European perception of the drama and Braj language: ”The performance was a kind of Ballet, descriptive of the sports of this amorous and inconstant, but interesting deity, with the Gopees, or virgins of Gokul, during which they sung stanzas of B,hak,ha, or a language of Brij [sic] (…). This language which is very little known among Europeans in general, is forcible and comprehensive, though, from abounding in monosyllables, it sounds harsh to ears unaccustomed to hear it pronounced. It contains beautiful specimens of the ancient Hindoo poets, which, I am persuaded, would apply himself to their study.”[13] Author gives us also a first hand description of what he saw: ”Both the dancing and singing of the Rahus-d,harees was far superior to that of common performers; their attitudes were exceedingly graceful, and their voices were never raised beyond the natural pitch. The dresses were appropriate and elegant, especially that of Kunya [sic], who wore a brilliant sun upon his head, and a quantity of superb jewels about his neck and breast; all of which, as well as the dresses of other boys, were furnished from the wardrobe of Muha Raj. After the dances were over, they exhibited in groups representations of the most celebrated statues of Krishna and his relatives, with accuracy and steadiness quite surprising in such children. (…) and it was pleasing to see them, after their performance, instead of making the usual obeisance, lifting up their little hands, as evoking a blessing upon the Muha Raj, who rose, and bowed to each as he retired.”[14] Broughton clearly appreciates the show with it’s visual and poetical aspects. The point which he makes about boys giving blessings to the Raj and Muha Raj bowing down to all of them, confirms the fact that līlā actors were seen as personifications of Kṛṣṇa and his associates who duly should be respected and can bless the audience. Broughton’s interest on Braj poetry results in publishing a collection of Braj poems under a title: “Selections from the Popular Poetry of the Hindoos – 1814”. The book is an outcome of Broughton’s finding out that many of his soldiers being Brahmins, were well acquainted with the poetry. Soldiers could remember many poems and were thus source of Broughton’s poetry collection. He was very surprised with the fact that poetry was not restricted only to royal courts but was relished by the common folk. Broughton’s published collection is one of the earliest critical remarks on Hindi poetry in English. [15]

Another eye-witness account given by foreigner is one of James Tod (1782-1835) in 1829. Tod was a British officer and a historian of Rajasthan. He served there on a diplomatic service from 1805 to 1822. Similarly like Broughton, Tod went to India in 1799 as a cadet in the Bengal Army and subsequently served as a chief of the Intelligence Department.[16] His description of rāslīlā can be found in his “Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan” (1829). Tod, similarly as Broughton, watched rāslīlā on the occasion of Janmāsṭami celebrations. He sums up his experience: “The movements of those who personate the deity and his fair companions are full of grace, and the dialogue is replete with harmony. The Chobis of Mathurā and Vindravana [sic] have considerable reputation as vocalists; and the effect of the modulated and deep tones of the adult blending with the clear treble of the juvenile performers, while the time is marked by the cymbal or the soothing monotony of the tabor, accompanied by the mūrali or flute, is very pleasing.”[17] In his account Tod clearly appreciates the aesthetic qualities of the performance. Both of the accounts – Tod’s and Broughton’s - show that Braj rāslīlā troupes were travelling and visiting distant places. It proves popularity of the līlā performance and the fact that it was considered as something worthy to show to British administrators.

An additional report worth noticing is that of Growse who happened to see only one performance, played in Sanket - place of Rādhā’s and Kṛṣṇa’s marriage. Sanket was established by Nārāyaṇ Bhatt as one of the important places in the banjātrā pilgrimage trail, hence, the rāslīlās were enacted there. Since līlā which was seen by Growse was “Vivāha Līlā”, where Kṛṣṇa and Rādhā don’t speak (just as it is in any contemporary marriage ceremonies, where groom and bride don’t talk), Growse was under the impression that rāslīlā was a pantomime. He writes: “The marriage scene, as performed at Sanket, is the only one that I have had the fortune to witness: with a garden terrace for stage, a grey stone temple for back-ground, the bright moon over head (…), the spectacle was a pretty one and was marked by a total absence of anything even verging upon indecorum.”[18] Further, since main 2 actors didn’t speak, he remarks that children who partake in a play “act only in a dumb show.”[19] Growse stated that Mathurā district was home to many actors and confirmed that Mathurā had been a centre of stage activity during the 19th century. As an enthusiast of the Braj culture he was raising also positive hope that it would develop even further.[20]

Contrasting to the above positive accounts, a report appeared in the 19th century edition of the “London Times” (24th March, 1859). The article describes evening entertainment provided by the rājā for the European officials in Lucknow. The one sentence description shows Western understanding in the face of the exotic: “There was one other interlude in the nauch, when there appears six or eight boys dressed as girls, their faces covered with gold leaf, who performed an abstruse comedy or mystery, and sang a chorus of an incomprehensible character (…).”[21] Understanding and appreciation of the rāslīlā certainly requires knowledge of it’s intricate world of special theological concepts and religious symbols. No everyone was ready to appreciate, celebrate and understand the amorous love plays or cheeky acts of Kṛṣṇa. Alexasnder Duff (1086-1878)[22], missionary and one of the most militant representatives of the Christian faith in India, bluntly spoke of Kṛṣṇa: “And yet, with all his external beauty, enhanced as it was by the decorations of art, what was the character of this incarnate divinity? In his youth, he selected 16000 shepherdesses, with whom he ‘sported away his hours in the gay revelries of dance and song’ (…). In a quarrel with a certain monarch respecting some point of precedency [sic], he became so enraged that he cut off the head of his rival. He was in the habit of practicing all manner of roughish and deceitful tricks. With the most deliberate acts of falsehood and of theft he was more than once chargeable.”[23]
… And because of these tricks and acts of falsehood the rāslīlās found a great material for plays and literary creativity. Braj poetry is happy to celebrate Kṛṣṇa’s frolics which Duff finds it hard to appreciate. One of the poems which was recited while Tod saw the rāslīlā is an excellent example of celebrating Kṛṣṇa’s “roughish and deceitful tricks” by Rādhā, Jasodā and consequently by Braj poets and their audience:

सुनिहो जसोदा फरियाद करों तकसीर सुनो अपने नट की ।
अहली जु चले बिँदराबन जाएँ जहाँ बाहँ झकझोर लियो झटकी ।
अहली मन मैं सुख छाइ रहे सखियाँ मुसकाई सबै सटकी ।
दधि माखन लूट लियो सगरो चट चौपट मैं मटकी पटकी ।।
तुम ग्वलिन नार गँवार बड़ी कोऊ पावत ना तुम्हरे धट की ।
दस बीस मिलो बन को जो चलो तुम मानत ना अपनी हटकी ।
…
रस कुंजन मैं जु किलोल करो हमसे (न) कहो मटकी पटकी ।।

“Listen, Jasodā, this is my complaint. Hear the mischief of your actor:
“When filled with joy, I went to Vrindāban, where he frolickingly wrenched my arms,
“Joy spread in [his] mind and my smiling companions moved away from us.
“He took away all my curd and butter and my earthen jar instantly smashed in plain view.
“Oh, cowherd woman, you are a big fool; nobody can understand [the matter] of your heart.
“Go in groups of ten or twenty when you go to the Forest (Vrindāban)! –
You did not consider my words, but only your stubborn [ways].
…
“You sport in groves of love and still speak of the smashed jar?” [24]

The rāslīlās of Mathurā and Vrindāvan hold a special position within India’s cultural heritage and it’s literature development. Study of rāslīlā in the context of it’s influence on various spheres of life and on two types of people: British and “Hindoos” is an interesting approach which enables one to explore many aspects of this theatrical form. Dramas of Mathurā certainly differ form western forms of theatre. As Norvin Hein puts it: “Special Indian needs bring them into being, and special Indian conditions give them their characteristic shape.”[25] The rāslīlās contributed greatly to the development of Hindi literature by providing poetry and prose which were either new creations or a transformation of already available literature. Through it’s literary development, this form of drama provided theological and cultural education for Indians and a new cultural experience for the British. Rāslīlā can’t be described as ‘rustic drama form’. The dignity of the dramas approaches that of literature, because it is so closely connected with it. Rāslīlā’s literary tradition does not cater for the taste of the masses, but inculcate traditional ideals which are approved by the society’s most honoured classes. The travelling rāsmaṇḍalīs were able to cross linguistic boundaries and their penetration of the non-Hindi speaking areas contributed to the increased prestige of Hindi and Hindi literature. Līlās proved that though played in Braj language, they were able to educate and make an impression on it’s spectators. It’s performance in colonial India had various impact – it certainly intrigued the British[26], educated Indians, created new devotees of Kṛṣṇa, new singers of Brajbhāshā songs, new pilgrims to Braj and new readers of the Brajbhāshā literature.[27]



Bibliography:
Bangha Imre, The First Published Anthology of Hindi Poets – Thomas Broughton’s Selection from the Popular Poetry of the Hindoos 1814, Rainbow Publishers Limited, Delhi, 2000

Dalmia Vasudha, The Nationalization of Hindu Traditions, Oxford University Press, Delhi, 1999

Duer Broughton Thomas, Letters Written in a Mahratta Camp During the Year 1809, Archbald Constable and Company, Westminster, 1818

Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Oxford University Press, Delhi, 1972

Growse Federick Salomon, Mathurā – A District Memoir, Asian Educational Services, New Delhi, 1979

Websites:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Tod
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Duff


[1] Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1972, pg.129
[2] Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1972,, pg. 6
[3] Kṛṣṇa, Supreme Godhead is understood to be a personal being, therefore his exchanges with gopīs and his devotees are very human-like. All religious groups of Vrindāvan and Mathurā worship Kṛṣṇa along side with Rādhā - the most important of gopīs. Rādhā is considered Kṛṣṇa’s hlādinī śakti, ‘blisfull energy’, a polar principle that is no different from Kṛṣṇa. In order to taste the bliss of his own nature, Kṛṣṇa creates his potency and as a lover enjoys communion with himself in this form. - ibid., pg. 9
[4] ibid., pg. 9
[5] ibid., pg. 223
[6] It is known that the rāslīlā performance of the mid - 16th century was predominantly an adult art and the timing of the shift into the usage of child actors is difficult to be dated. - ibid., pg. 230
[7] Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1972, pg. 6
[8] After leaving the stage career, skilled boys could hope to become svamis themselves, or moved onto playing musical instruments that accompanied the performance.
[9] Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1972, pg. 14
[10]Bangha Imre, The First Published Anthology of Hindi Poets – Thomas Broughton’s Selection from the Popular Poetry of the Hindoos 1814, Delhi: Rainbow Publishers Limited, 2000, pg. 9-10
[11] “Great preparations are making for the approaching Hindoo festival Junum-ushtoomee, the anniversary of the birth of Krishna. Sets of dancing boys, called Rahusd,harees, are arrived from Muttra for the occasion, and all the principal people in camp have received invitations to be present at their performance.” in: Duer Broughton Thomas, Letters Written in a Mahratta Camp During the Year 1809, Westminster: Archbald Constable and Company, 1818, pg. 187
[12] ibid., pg. 192
[13] ibid.
[14] ibid., pg. 194-195
[15] Bangha Imre, The First Published Anthology of Hindi Poets – Thomas Broughton’s Selection from the Popular Poetry of the Hindoos 1814, Delhi: Rainbow Publishers Limited, 2000, pg. 11
[16] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Tod
[17] Growse Federick Salomon, Mathurā – A District Memoir, New Delhi: Asian Educational Services, 1979, pg. 33
[18] ibid., pg. 80
[19] ibid.
[20] Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1972, pg.4
[21] ibid., pg. 130
[22] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Duff
[23] Dalmia Vasudha, The Nationalization of Hindu Traditions, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1999, pg. 346

[24] Bangha Imre, The First Published Anthology of Hindi Poets – Thomas Broughton’s Selection from the Popular Poetry of the Hindoos 1814, Delhi: Rainbow Publishers Limited, 2000, pg. 65-66
[25] Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1972, pg. 273
[26] Apart from personal accounts mentioned above, British scholars looked at rāslīlās in an academic perspective. For example, William Ridgeway in his book The Dramas and Dramatic Dances of Non-European Races in Special Reference to the Origin of Greek Tragedy, published by Cambridge University Press in 1915, gives substantial description and documentation concerning the rāslīlā.
[27] Hein Norvin, The miracle plays of Mathurā, Delhi: Oxford University Press, 1972, pg. 161

For Women By Women

As I am sitting and writing a news article about safety of women living in India, I want to share with you an article from the web, which I think presents a cool idea. It is an old one (28th September 2007, "The HINDU" Business Lane), neverthless a valuable one. It presents female driving force - in it's actual meaning!

Driving Forsche

A new taxi service in Mumbai powered by women, for women.

WFS

Hers: The Forsche taxi service boasts a team of well-educated, reliable and courteous drivers.

Surekha Kadapa Bose

Every second Saturday of the month, a small office near the City Light cinema in Mumbai comes alive with peals of laughter, excited chatter and lively discussions.

Eighteen women drivers, part of an all-women taxi service called ‘Forsche’, are busy exchanging notes and narrating their experiences of the month gone by over a sumptuous meal.

“It was in December 2006 that I hit upon the idea of starting a pre-paid taxi service for women in this metro. It was just a thought and I wasn’t too sure of the reaction to my venture. But I knew that I had hit bull’s eye when I received a tremendous response for the first full-page advertisement I placed in an eveninger asking for competent women drivers,” says Revathi Roy, 45, the brain behind Forsche.

‘For she’

Incidentally, ‘Forsche’ has been derived from the word Porsche — the German sports car firm — but is spelt with an ‘F’ and pronounced as ‘for she’. Of course, Revathi’s service motto is — ‘By the women, for the women and of the women.’

“As a frequent taxi passenger, I would find it irritating that some drivers would stare at me in the rear-view mirror. Also, I wasn’t too comfortable with the lack of cleanliness of regular cabs and even the way the drivers drove,” remarks Revathi. With her personal savings and some money from friends and relatives, Revathi raised funds to the tune of Rs 14 lakh. Friends and well-wishers bought her the cars and she pays the EMI of these cars plus Rs 1,000 extra to the car owners. Despite the experience of running a successful business — her family owns Windors, an outlet for windows and doors accessories — Revathi was pleasantly surprised at how quickly word spread about her venture. Forsche taxis, the fleet comprises 18 air-conditioned white Maruti Versa cars, are cleaned daily so that the passengers don’t inhale stale air. In addition, Forsche offers its women-only passengers a mini make-up kit that includes a mirror, nail polish remover, cotton buds, clippers and nail files. There’s a selection of magazines and newspapers on board so that passengers are pleasantly engaged during long rides.

Each taxi is also fitted with a walkie-talkie so that the drivers are in constant contact with each other and also with the head office, manned by Revathi. Interestingly, these cabs also double as advertisements on wheels. Currently, the women’s magazine, Marie Claire, has had a pink stripe painted on the taxis, which gives them an attractive and feminine appearance.

“We have a six-month contract with Marie Claire,” explains Revathi, who began the Forsche service this year, on March 8, which is International Women’s Day. “I will later be tying up with Hindustan Lever for an all-India sponsorship.” These good-looking vehicles stand out from among the regular yellow-black cabs in the city. But it’s not just the cabs that are trendy. The drivers are, too.

Dressed in pink or lavender kurta (tunic) and blue trousers, an ink-blue scarf tied Girl Guide fashion around their necks completes the very elegant and posh look. “Not only do our passengers like our looks and that of our taxis, they also enjoy the music we play,” says Annhaita Mistry, 45, a graduate and one of the senior-most drivers. That is another plus point of Forsche — the drivers are well educated and can speak fluent English, Hindi and Marathi. A few are also conversant in Gujarati.

Love of driving

And all of them are passionate about driving. The drivers take home Rs 9,500.

Prachi Jaiswal, 28, a graphic designer from the J.J. School of Arts in Mumbai, is the latest entrant at Forsche. Says Prachi, “I have always loved driving. When I got this chance to indulge in my passion, earn and also work on my freelance design work, I jumped at the offer.” Some drivers pursue higher studies, working part-time with Forsche over the weekends. The 24-hour, door-to-door service is a big hit with the women of Mumbai. One has to just pick up the phone and dial 09323208277 or 09892819245 or 022-24324161 to arrange a cool ride. Forsche’s customers also include outstation women who fly down to the city for work. “They call up and ask for the taxi to be at the airport to pick them up at a particular time,” Revathi says. For instance, Bangalore’s Swarupa Gangadharan always books in advance and enjoys a comfortable ride with Forsche.

Then there is 81-year-old Dr Nalinee Odak, a former physician at ESIS’s MG Memorial Hospital in Parel, who likes to engage a Forsche. “Being a senior citizen, I found it difficult to move around. But with Revathi’s taxis, which have reliable, well-behaved and courteous women drivers, I have started travelling around the city with ease. Now I use their services at least two to three times a month to visit my sister at Walkeshwar, or my friend at Dadar,” she says.

Comfort’s price

But the comfort comes at a price. Forsche charges Rs 200 per hour. Revathi concedes, “Our services are 20 per cent higher than other taxis. But with us, women can relax and enjoy the ride without having to worry about their plunging necklines as there are no gawking male drivers looking in the rear-view mirrors.” The facilities are only available to women, though. No man can ride in a Forsche taxi. Not even husbands or sons, though children up to 12 years are welcome. “The family can always hire a regular taxi,” suggests Revathi.

In the last six months, these drivers and their regular customers have become an extended family that meets often and shares benefits. Any tips earned are put into a common kitty, a ‘handi’ (clay pot).

“We break the handi every second Saturday and distribute the money equally among all the 18 drivers. Every driver makes an extra Rs 1,000 - 2,000 a month from these tips,” says Revathi. The venture has already broken even. “From next month I hope to make profits,” says Revathi, whose last six months have been fraught with many personal tragedies.

She lost her husband, her mother and her grandfather. Revathi credits her family for her accomplishment. “The immense support that I have got from my parents-in-law and my three children — Satyajit (21), Shurojit (18), Shubhojit (12) — has made my venture very successful,” says the petite but strong-willed entrepreneur. What are her future plans for Forsche? Having tasted success, Revathi wants to expand her business to Delhi and Bangalore. In fact, she has already set up the Delhi office and her eldest son has begun the initial groundwork. Here’s hoping she has a smooth ride.

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/life/2007/09/28/stories/2007092850020100.htm

Diwali in Jaipur

Though I am presently in London and not in Jaipur, I do keep the pulse on what is happening there. And hanging on the phone with India every day is a great help too! Here for your pleasure are few pictures of the colorful decorations that light up the Pink City every year for this festive season.

Old city.

View of Jaipur from Nahargarh Fort.

Raja Park.

Offices of Rajasthan Patrika - a regional Hindi newspaper that I read. All the pictures here are at their courtesy.


Busy streets of Raja Park again.

Old city.

How much are you worth?

Recently I have spent countless hours writing my CV, updating it and making various forms of the same, boring CV document. Trust me - I prefer to write up a 5000 words essay than dive into the challenge of CV writing boredom. It is an art - how much do you sell yourself for? How much of yourself can you advertise on the first page of your CV, before fed up Human Resources manager will be prompted to put you in the 'No' file? How many people do you need to outstand and outnumber to get to the top? And how not to run out of steam in the meantime? Tough questions for the tough living in the mainstream of our human society. Some people have competitiveness in their blood. I don't. When I used to train target shooting I never wanted to compete against the others. But the cruel world is not set up like that.

So how much are we worth at the end of the day? Now see the crude reality.

Forget your CV. Die quickly so you can save some money on your exit.

I took this picture recently in Kolkata Crematorium near Kali Ghat.

Unity in Diversity

Here are a few cool pictures which were given to me by my friend Dhara who lives in Delhi. These pictures were taken by her in a call centre where she works with a bunch of other enthusiastic young people. Whenever I look at them I think: "unity in diversity! teamwork!". And then I ponder on what my friends told me once when I described myself as a teamplayer: "Yeah... cool, but did you notice that it must be always only YOUR game???". There you go. Wanna be part of my game then?

Item Girl

Did you ever feel you were an item girl? Well, I am not speaking here of item girls doing a 5 minute song-flick-thing in a Bollywood movie. There is other type of item girls. Here in India if you are white and a westerner - you are an item! If you are blond - you are high value item! Everyone wants to speak to you, take a photo with you, invite you for functions so that they can show you off to their friends and family. Watch out for the wedding season - there is nothing more powerful than having a few white videshis dancing in your bharat (wedding procession)! Everyone will look, whoooohaaaa - you made your statement, and increased your local status by 6 points! White people around you - you must have money, charm, style, and connections! And maybe you can even manage to leave India on their invitation and become and NRI! Wah, wah, wah!

But tell you one thing, guys - as much as I am white and blond (and truly hope that I am not one of those 'thick blondes'!), I have no money, no status, no home in foreign land. I am completely useless. Oh, maybe I should then hook up with some wealthy industrialist over here. What a great idea, wah, wah, wah!

108 - Indian Emergency Call Number

If you are ever in trouble while in India, simply dial 108! India recently launched a new scheme and 108 has become an emergency number for some of some states. Here is an article about it form http://www.india-server.com/news/dial-108-for-emergency-in-india-1805.html:

"You may have often seen in the movies or even read in books about ‘911’ the number the United States denizens dial incase of emergency situations! Now a similar service is being introduced in India by the Emergency Management and Research Institute (EMRI), which is soon about to launch this service in Madhya Pradesh. In a recent statement, Health minister Ambumani Ramadoss was intimated by Union Telecom minister A Raja that 108 is being finalized as the national toll free trauma care number to the institution.

It was further informed that 108 is already being used as the toll free emergency number in Indian states such as Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh, and Uttarakhand. On the other hand, even states like Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Tamil Nadu have inked MoU with the EMRI Institute for availing this service. Indian states like Jammu and Kashmir, Assam and Kerala too are charting plans for fixing the number 108 for all emergency purposes.

Every time a caller dials 108, his or her call will be received by a 24 hour call centre which will take down all important information from the caller. After this, the call centre will locate an ambulance, fire vehicle or the police vehicle depending on the type of emergency through GPRS technology and dispatch it to where the help is needed. The EMRI Institute has received top recognition in the health care category at the 2008 computer world honours programme."

The Non Sacred Sounds of India

Well, just as people appreciate the sacredness of India with it's mantras, tantras, sound of aratik songs and ringing bells, I am pondering about it's non sacred sounds that surround me every day...

Here you go, that is what the background sounds of my life here consists of:

1) Sound of clearing the throat followed by spit. From the window of my bathroom I can hear that every morning from my neighbors' house.

2) "Breaaad, breaaad!" - that's the guy who sells bread every morning in front of my house. It is followed later on in the day by people selling brooms, subjis, newspapers, chai, muri, namkeen, ice cream, samosas and so on.

3) Buzzing of the AC. And fan.

4) Buzzing of the energy saving light bulbs (the long one's that make you feel that you are in a hospital ward!).

5) Hooting of scooters, bikes and cars.

6) "Radio Mirchi" - (They always say: "Radio Mirchi sunnewale - always kush!" - those who listen to radio Mirchi are always happy!)

7) Bollywood songs - my addiction!

8) Silly TV advertisements.

9) Questions asked by absolute strangers: "Which country do you belong to? Are you married?" - next time you ask me, I will strangle you, by the way.

10) Sexual harassment lines and sleazy chat up lines - as a response, I have become expert in Hindi dirty language.

11) A guy who lives around the corner and dressed up as a clown follows people around playing a tambourine.

12) Bharat (wedding) processions that march back and forth in front of my window.

13) Brass bands that are just so uncool.

14) Screaming kids. Screaming big families.

... Any other ideas and experiences anyone out there?????

And thanks God that India has so many sacred sounds to balance it all out and give one some tranquility, so that one doesn't go totally nuts by living here!

Sri Radha Ramanji's Appearance Day

In Vrindavan, after Narasimha Caturdasi, day after purnima (usually it is the purnima day but somehow or other this year tithi worked out different), we celebrated Sri Radha Ramanji's divine apperance day. Radha Raman Mandir is famous and well respected in Vrindavan and twice a year - on Radha Ramanji's appearance day and Janmasthami a maha abhiseka is conducted. Certainly, great festivals to attend! This year, though it was late May, the weather was great - it was cloudy and rainy, thus I didn't feel any discomfort due to the heat. I took some pictures, so here they are for you to enjoy. I worked together with Chandan Goswami (Padmanabha Goswami's son), who runs a great website: www.shriradharaman.com, thus some of the photos that I am posting here, you can find there too. I encourage everyone to have a look at that website, you will find there a lot of interesting things to read and great picture galleries to look at.

On the day of the abhiseka, all 40 Goswami families are present on the altar taking their turns in bathing the Lord. Here, on the right, you can see Chandan Goswami.

Radha Ramanji enjoys His bath in 500 liters of milk and other auspicious substances.

Pancamrita distribution.

Radha Ramanji comes out from His inner sanctum during the summer season (starting on the day of Chandan Yatra). He enjoys a fresh flower decoration every day!

Twice a year (Radha Ramanji's appearance day and Janmasthami) a special darsan is possible to be seen - maha cloth of Sri Caitanya Mahaprabhu which was presented by Him to Gopal Bhatta Goswami.

1+1=11

In Hindi we say 1+1=11. It means that when people keep together, they are much stronger than just being alone. Travelling through India and living here, I often see 1+1=11 in action. Have you ever seen a Tata Sumo with 25 people packed all tightly inside - one family doing a yatra together or just on their way somewhere? Being in India of course means being exposed to crowds too. People sometimes ask me if I feel lonely here. How could I? Living in India means that India lives with you too, whether you like it or not! Loud crowd is everywhere. Just see what a travelling Indian family consist of: a bunch of ladies (the seniors of the family plus the younger generation) - the real bosses of the group. Of course they all come with gingly ankle bells and bangles (how can life go on withouth these?). Then bunch of men - all loud and happy. They only become little bit more silent when they finally sit down to eat. And a bunch of kids in squeeky shoes - skueek, skueek - don't I love this sound? How cute.

In India basis of human life is rista (relation= family) and kartavya (duty). Now, where do I fit here? Single videshi (foreigner) who roams around India in pursuit of advancement in Krsna consciousness, study and widening career prospects. Oh, where to put me? I have no other 24 members of my family that I could stick in Tata Sumo to travel with me. Perhaps I am not so good in keeping up my duties. Possibly I even don't understand what they are. So I am a social misfit in the indian society. Yet, I live in this society as a happy, viseshi misfit. Why not? This society of a population of 1,129,866,154 is happy to live with me. Why not? 1+1=11. United we stand, divided we fall!

Narasimha Caturdasi in Vrindavan

Here is the darsan of Vraj Narasimha, a wooden deity of the Lord in a small temple situated in a galie leading to Radha Vallabha Mandir. This is where I celebrated my Narasimha Caturdasi this year. Mood was great and devotees enthusiactically qued to receive maha-prasad and caranamrta.

I also visited Radha Raman Mandir because in the evening the Goswamis were performing an abhiseka of this Narasimha Sila, which was originally worsipped by Gopal Bhatta Goswami.

Local boys dressed as Lorn Narshimhadev performed dance through the streets of Vrindavan and visited many temples to perform for the deities as well. Just after the abhiseka, they entered the Radha Raman Mandir.

The abhiseka.

Radha Ramanji's darsan on that day.

From Jaipur...

Jaipur is going back to normal life. Though shaken, people of Jaipur don't give in. Jaipur has been known for it's very low crime rate and lack of tension between various religious communities. Both Hindus and Muslims have condemned the attack, and as one of the victims described: "Terrorism knows no religion. It kills everyone." Though the responsibility for the Tuesday bomb blasts was claimed by an islamic group, areas which were targeted belonged to both communities. Market at Badi Choupad is run mostly by Muslims and I remember happy bangle sellers from there who would offer their goods to burkha-clad ladies. At Johari Bazaar, not far from the blast site is a very popular Jama Masjid. On Friday special prayers were offered at the Mosque for the blast victims.

Here is an article from the Jaipur edition of "The Times of India" on that subject:

"Blasts fail to weaken Hindu-Muslim ties" - 17 May 2008, Avijit Ghosh,TNN

JAIPUR: It's late at night. And there's nothing really that distinguishes Islami Kallu Hotel from the rows of similar shops in Ramganj area. Except that it has far more customers than all other shops around. And the reason, says shop owner Kallu, is that it serves the best mutton qorma and other Mughlai delicacies in the town.

"My biggest customers are Hindus and they come from all parts of Jaipur. Some of them drive in from as far as 20 km to eat here," says his son Zahooruddin.

Designed to drive a wedge between the city's Hindus and Muslims, the Tuesday terror attack was meant to change all that. But it didn't happen. "Whoever was trying to divide the two communities has failed," says Kallu. It is 72 hours since the blasts and the Hindus are not back in big numbers yet. But Kallu, judging by the mood of the city and the way it has reacted everywhere, is sure that there won't be any big cracks in the relationship.

Apart from the respect for each other that comes with a sharing of lives, professional interdependence between the two communities has gone a long way in ensuring that the quality of relations doesn't dip. "Even in a restaurant like mine, there is plenty of inter-dependence. We buy ghee, oil, flour, vegetables, spices” everything from Hindus. I operate in cash but I am also open to credit with them," says Kallu.

Sitting outside Zahiruddin's Naeem Book Depot, Abdul Wahid says that many Muslim women make embroideries on fabrics. The factory owners who give them work are Hindus. "It's an economy of inter-dependence," he says. A few Muslims sitting around the shop reveal that they just hoped that the blasts would not cause a negative fall-out. "But the fact that there have been no repercussions shows that the worst is behind us. The maturity shown by citizens of Jaipur is an example to the world," says Wahid.

I P S Bagga, former president of Hawa Mahal Bazar Vyapar Mandal, estimates that Muslims form about 50% of shop owners in the Hawa Mahal area, about 35% in Johari Bazar and about 5% in Bapu Bazar. In several city-based industries such as gems and stones, shoes, fabrics.” the workers and the owners often are from different communities.

Figures are hard to come by but everyone admits that a majority of the artisans employed in cutting, polishing and shaping are Muslims. The owners are both Hindus and Muslims. Bagga sums up the situation: "The serial blasts have saddened people. But Hindu and Muslim shop owners have always cooperated with each other. That will never change."

Scenes from the SMS Hospital in Jaipur

Here is the map of of the bomb blasts in Jaipur. Those of you who have been in this city will notice the cruel precision aimed at killing applied here. The spots that were hit are the busiest places in the old city. This map shows 5 places, but in fact there were 9. 12 minutes before the blast I left Badi Choupar to go to see Radha Govindadevji.

There is an all day curfew in the city, all shops are shut and the streets are deserted. Yesterday I decided to go around the city on my scooter to see what the atmosphere was like. Most of the roads were closed with a lot of police present at every major junction.

Panch Bhatti Circle at MI Road.

My neighborhood - Raja Park; usually this road is full of traffic.

Not knowing what to do with myself in a deserted city, I decided to buy newspapers and check the latest news. As I was driving past the Sawai Man Singh Hospital where most of the bomb blast victims were treated, I decided to stop my scooter and go in. By now, dead people were being removed to the morgue so that the space for those still living could be made. SMS Hospital is the biggest one in Jaipur.

Whole scene had a live coverage.

Here families and friends of the victims were checking the lists posted on the walls saying who was admitted to the hospital. Once could sense tension on the faces of those looking at the wall. I looked up the names - people of all ages and from various parts of Jaipur were admitted. On the evening of the blasts police had to keep the crowd in control here, because families were frantically trying to bring their loved one's in, or were trying to find out if they were in the hospital. Some were looking for the dead.

The "blood bank" was busy with the people willing to donate their blood.

Corridors were made into makeshift wards. As I walked around the hospital on the first floor where the "Day Care Centre" was, I could see various people wounded, lying under drips, with families surrounding their beds. As I walked up, the scene got more gruesome and I didn't dare to take any pictures. There, most of the people were in very bad condition, mostly with limbs missing, full of blood stained bandages. Faces of the victim's relatives expressed enormous suffering too.

As I walked back downstairs, someone was being taken away. Meantime on the corridors in the hospital one of the workers was washing off the blood from the walls.

I dread what may be behind this picture. It's from Badi Choupad bomb blast site. At 6.30pm I spoke with the man who was selling these drums in front of Hawa Mahal... Afterwards he headed towards Badi Choupad...

Bomb Blasts in Jaipur - Pictures

Here I have nothing to say here, the photos speak for themselves.

Jaipur Bomb Blasts

Yesterday night 9 bombs went off in the old city of Jaipur, in the main parts of the busy bazaars.




Here is an article from "The Times of India":

JAIPUR: Terror struck yet again — this time in Jaipur, at the busiest market, at the busiest hour, aimed with chilling precision to kill, maim, terrify and cleave the country. At last count, the toll was 80 killed, and with over 150 injured, it could go up. (Watch)

The first blast took place at 7.20pm on Tuesday in the crowded Johari Bazaar and within 15 minutes seven more blasts occurred in adjoining areas in the walled city — near the Hanuman Mandir, which was milling with devotees, near Hawa Mahal, at Badi Chaupad, Tripolia Bazar and Chandpole.

Within minutes, the entire market was a picture of total chaos. People ran screaming, jumping over dead bodies and severed limbs, skirting mangled rickshaws and damaged cars. The piercing wail of ambulance sirens replaced the firecrackers that would go off every other day in Jaipur to celebrate its victorious Rajasthan Royals T20 team.

Terrorists displaying the telltale tactics of Lashkar-e-Taiba and SIMI struck with bombs planted on cycles and cycle-rickshaws. In the past three years, this is the 21st terror attack outside Jammu & Kashmir. Chief minister Vasundhara Raje said, "We will not tolerate this."

Police later arrested a man from Mumbai. Rajasthan's director general of police, A S Gill, said the attacks were designed to cause maximum damage and the sites had been picked with care. He confirmed that bombs had been planted on brand- new Avon cycles. Similar cycle blasts on September 8, 2006, in Malegaon, Maharashtra, had killed 38 people during a Muslim festival day. Bombs on cycles were also used for the attack on the Faizabad court.

The Malegaon attacks were blamed on LeT and the banned Students' Islamic Movement of India.

The Jaipur attack might have been worse had three unexploded bombs not been defused in the walled city area. Another bomb was defused in the upmarket Raja Park area, triggering fresh fears. Mercifully, the city was keeping calm.

***************************************

Right now the city is under the curfew, Raja Park where I live is almost all shut down. Yesterday I missed the blast in the city by 12 minutes, but I saw what was happening afterwards. Late afternoon I was doing an interview for my academic research at Johari Bazaar, then I moved on to Hawa Mahal where I left my scooter. Bomb was exactly where I have parked. I went to visit one temple across the road and then went to Govindaji Mandir. On my way out from the temple I could see that things were not right - people rushed off somewhere and police came ready for a laathi charge. Big traffic, streets closed off, shops all shut. I looked up at Radha Damodar Mandir - temple was also shut and then I knew that something awful must have hapened since it was an aratik time for them. Police vans, ambulances, riot police and dispersed, disoriented crowds confirmed my fears.

Krsna has saved me by making me to go for Govindadevji's darsan at 7pm instead of 6.15. First I was planing to see Govindadev at 6.15 and then do my things after 7pm at Johari Bazaar, Hawa Mahal, Sanganeri gate - exactly the time and place of the blasts. Somehow or other I decided to have a longer darsan at 7 o'clock, instead of a 15 minute one after 6pm. Haven't I have done it - I would be well gone, since the route I always take is where the bombs were. I saw one of my teachers yesterday during the day, and since she knows that I am always at that time in these areas on my scooter, the first thing that she did after hearing about the bombs was that she went to my house to see if my scooter was there. It wasn't - I was out. She finally reached me on the phone and spoke to me at 11.30 pm to her relief.

While I was sitting in the temple yesterday night and looking at Govindadev I felt an inspiration to chant extra rounds and Gayatri, what made me to stay longer in the temple than I was expecting. Krsna's mercy, otherwise I wouldn't be here to write this blog entry...